Put the top bar back to words

The icon run in the top bar read worse than what it replaced. Restore the
earlier top bar — pane words, new, open ▾, undo ▾ redo, the edit menu,
snapshots ▾, title, status, export… — and its CSS. The stage bar's overlay
switches, the palette chooser and `menu/popover` stay.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5.5 <noreply@anthropic.com>

frontend/test/browser/take.mjs

@@ -251,7 +251,8 @@ const CLICK = (label) => `(() => {
 // turn of the event loop between them, as it is for anybody using the app.
 const MENU_OPEN = `(() => {
   if (document.querySelector('.menu')) return true;
-  const b = document.querySelector('.top button[aria-label="open a project"]');
+  const b = [...document.querySelectorAll('button')]
+    .find((b) => b.textContent.trim() === 'open \u25be');
   if (!b || b.disabled) return false;
   b.click();
   return true;